Traveller supports attached

Both traveller supports are glued on and covered with carbon fabric:

Check out that aft-cabin top - looks nice and fair, eh? 

The wingnet rail laminations covered up some compartment drain holes; my festool drill 90-degree attachment helped me to open them up again (drilling from the inside):

I love my festool stuff...wish I had more!

Otherwise I've mostly been fairing, with a lot of time spent on the transom and beam mount - although they're still not primer-ready.   I have to switch to other jobs occasionally to keep morale up.

It's hard to spend hour after hour on fairing without wanting to share some personal insights...  For most exterior hull sections I am using the notched-trowel method of fairing.    Granted, it is not a perfect method - I still have to do a lot of minor patching to get a truely fair surface.   It is however more efficient and easier in the long run (IMO) though than the "trowel on a flat layer" approach that I used almost exclusively back when fairing my floats.    Also, sanding through the fairing compound into glass occurs much less often this way than it did with my floats.

Here is the notch coat on the next hull section:

After curing and sanding down flat:

You can see some of my Dura-Block sanding blocks in the picture above - they work great, I'm very satisfied with them.  

And then the initial fill coat:

I find it is important to resist the urge to sand the notch coat as far down as possible - you would expect that the initial fill coat will end up flush with the top of the ridges, but it doesn't work that way.  The fill coat usually shrinks or settles just slightly, such that it sits slightly below the ridges - so if the ridges are left at bare minimum to begin with, you will have a hard time getting a fair surface without potentially sanding into glass.    So it is better to leave the ridges slightly higher than minimum, then sand them down as needed to meet the fill coat.    (After that, normal patching proceeds as needed - the notch coat method just helps to get you close to a fair starting point.)

I spent a lot of time today spreading fairing compound on the main-cabin interior (no notch-coats in there - just not enough room to do a good job in most spots).    Fair warning, my goal is to get the interior to a "good enough" state - don't want to spend the time for anything better.  

I am also trying to make a molded-channel to hold the acrylic main-cabin hatch cover pieces (similar to what Tor did).    Rather than making mine in-situ as Tor did, I am making a channel blank which will then be glued\laminated to the boat.   I'll share details on how it turned out in a later post. 

Traveller supports (worthy of the Hulk)

The plans call for a 5/32" minimum thickness on the 100% carbon fiber traveller supports that glue to the sides of the aft cabin.    I approached this task by cutting a bunch of carbon fiber pieces (half at 90 degrees, half at 45 degrees, to be alternated during lamination) and measuring their compressed thickness while dry.    When I got to 3/16" I figured that was enough for a safety factor and did a wet layup of the whole mess (don't know anymore what weight of carbon I had on hand, but it took 20 layers total), using slow hardener.   Then I laid it over the mold and put in the back of the car to help it cure:

Notice how the mold plate is laying at an angle?   This caused a near-disaster:  once I left it alone, the carbon fiber started sliding slowly down the mold, all told about 2-3 inches before it (fortunately) started to harden up (thank goodness for warm summer days).    The part that slid over buckled around the mold edge making removal a fun chore.  Nevertheless, there was enough carbon left in the right areas to still make the support:

And notice how much wastage there is in the blank shown above?  I feel bad about this, but on the other hand if I had tried to minimize the size of the blank (and hence the amount of carbon used), it would have turned out too small (or of non-uniform thickness) - it's very hard to keep all the pieces in a multi-layer layup exactly together so it helps to give yourself some room for error.   (Especially when dealing with fiber cut at 45 degrees...it always wants to distort.)

On the other hand...I ended up with a 3/8" inch thick (darn near uniform) piece! This thing is strong - I cannot flex it at all by hand.   There is zero signs of voids along the edge - not bad for a hand layup, if I do say so myself.

The first support consumed nearly all of my remaining carbon fiber, so I ordered a bunch more 11.1oz carbon from Fiberglass Supply (using next day shipping, ouch! - sometimes instead I drive up there for a will-call pickup, but it's a three hour round-trip and I was busy this time.) for the second one.    I wanted both supports to have the same thickness, so I used the same method - cut enough pieces until I got to a dry thickness of 3/16", hoping this would end up the same.  This time it only required about 16 layers.    Here's my carbon cake in progress, only a few layers to go:

Freshly laid over the mold (note the supports underneath to keep it level this time!):

I let it cure overnight then gave both supports a half-day-long post-cure in the car (80+ deg F day today!).  

Unfortunately, my laminate-thickness dead-reckoning techniques suck...the second support turned out substantially thicker than the first one, right around 7/16"+:

Ah well, at least it's lightweight (although fairing these monster supports into the rest of the hull might be a chore).  

I carefully marked how the supports should be mounted to get the correct angle, then removed the jig:

I decided I wanted to fair the aft cabin top without the supports being in the way, so they have been removed for the time being.    Here's the current state of my fairing efforts at the aft end of the boat:

The weather man has predicted more dust clouds in my area tomorrow... :-)

Aft mast support sockets

These are pretty easy to make, but here's a few pictures anyway.   This is right after pouring thickened epoxy into the mold next to the aluminum tube:

Note that before doing this, I cleaned the tube with acetone, sanded it with 80 grit to give the epoxy something to "key" into, then cleaned it with acetone again.   They turned out looking good:

After mounting against the transom and glassing over with a single piece of "A" glass:

Next was a light piece of cloth to cover the tops of the sockets and join them to the swim step deck, followed by the drain hole (1/4" hole located 1/4" from the bottom of the tube).    Filling the bottom of the tube with bog was easy - just enough until it started to run out the drain hole :).  

My only other comment on this work, is that I wished I had used small bolts instead of threaded rod (that I cut to fit)...one of the threaded rods stripped itself out of the hardened bog and I had to re-inject the hole through the rudder web access holes in the aft-cabin, then re-insert the rod and wait for it to harden again - not much fun.   

Traveller jig and support mold plates

Here's a picture of the completed jig I built to locate the traveller at the proper location and angle:

I measured the angle as best I could from the plans, ending up with 57 degrees from horizontal...hope it's right but I doubt a few degrees either way will make a difference.   

Making the support mold plates seemed like it was going to be really difficult, since the two planes of the support meet at odd angles.   It turned out to be not so bad though.  I first clamped a piece of wood to the underside of the traveller, then located another piece of wood (roughly trimmed to fit) against the bottom of the first piece of wood to form the rough mold blank:

I then added a bog fillet and a single piece of glass to lock the two pieces in this position:

The rest was easy; let the glass cure, remove the mold plates, trim off the excess, make a gentle transition curve, and voila:

Obviously the above picture is for the port traveller support; there is a similar one for starboard.

The temporary jig for all of this is a pain to maneuver around, but I decided not to tear it down and set it up again later - too much wasted work.   So it will stay up for a few days until both traveller supports are fabricated and attached to the boat.   Stay tuned...

Visiting Victoria BC via catamaran

Last three days my wife and I were gone on a short trip to Victoria British Columbia...it is a nice city and we really enjoyed ourselves.   We sailed there and back on the Victoria Clipper which is probably not the first thing that comes to mind when you think "catamaran" but it was a nice, smooth ride.   All of their catamarans have water-jet propulsion; check out these rooster-tails:

As you can see the Strait of Juan de Fuca was very calm....I've heard things can get much more exciting during the winter months.

Most of the trip was non-nautical, but I very much enjoyed visiting the Maritime Museum of BC; although the whole museum is fun, the main exhibit I was interested in was that of Trekka, a 20' boat sailed around the world in the 1950's by John Guzzwell.    His book Trekka Round The World is a inspiring read if you haven't done so already.

The boat itself appears to be in fantastic shape, although I did not try to climb aboard and poke around (there was a sign saying not to).   Here's a couple of pictures of the exterior though, one from the bow...

...and one from the stern...

It was a nice break and we had fun...now back to fairing and other work tomorrow.

Motor mount and other progress

I removed the motor mount from its original position, extended the bottom, and mounted it right behind the transom.   This time it fits:

As before this only with bog holding things in place:

The motor in the up position should not hinder the tiller except at the extreme leftward limit of travel...from what I can tell anyway.   It is hard to visualize the swing of the rudder on the aft-cabin model.

Once satisfied with the overall design, I bogged in the support arm and laid a single layer of uni around it lapping onto the outer hull.   I also taped the ends of the arm using 'A' glass.   I hope this is enough to hold everything secure:

Fairing compound on the poptop:

My quick-and-dirty jig to locate the position of the traveller support arms:

But the bulk of my time has been spent on fairing the top and sides of the boat; fairing just kind of sucks you in and eats up the hours like no tomorrow.   Lordy but my arms hurt!  :)   I am creeping closer to almost primer-ready though:

On the bright side, I realized that I have already made a lot of progress on the "fiddly" areas...bow-web, beam mounts, hatch coaming, etc.   The bottom of the boat should be much easier, right?