The main cabin hatch coamings are all laminated:
The warm weather was very helpful in getting the glass to cure quickly around those tight curves. ("Warm" is relative of course; personally, I start to melt over 90 deg F or so... :). I have not yet laminated or filled the foam edge of the gusset; will be soon now that the coamings are done.And some more progress on the cockpit seat flanges:
See how some of the tape edges are nicely trimmed and squared up? I discovered that a Fein Multimaster tool (borrowed from my neighbor Bill - thanks!) does a spectacular job of easily trimming these up. I also used it to trim the cabin flange back. If I had known about it, it would have also done a great job trimming the beam mount LFS flanges. This tool is going on my Christmas list for sure.
It's not shown in any pictures, but I also added a second layer of C glass to the doubler plates on all beam mounts. The original plans only specified one layer, so that's what I did (a few weeks back). I was breezing through the last plan update (May 2009) thinking that I could probably ignore everything in that update since it's primarily focused on the new style beam mounts; then I noticed the new beam mount sheets call for TWO layers of C glass over the doubler plates...so I added the extra layer, just to be on the safe side.
3 comments:
Hi Jay , just a suggestion , making mould flanges is a pain , we use clear perspex( acrylic ) sheet , just do your normal mould release system and because the acrylic (3mm is fine for most jobs ) is flexible - important for the coaming tops -it is great to use . The big advantage is that because it is transparent you can see what you are doing . Regards , Jim Buckland .
Hi Jim, I am not sure I got that right, you use the perspex as a see trough flexible mould for the flanges?
Hi Tor , yes , polycarbonate is fine also . You should be able to get plenty of long narrow strips cheap from a cut-it-to-size place . If you also get some of the solvent glue which you put into a dry assembled joint with a syringe or similar you can join it , put cross pieces on at strategic points etc .This glue dries within minutes . Perspex is also very handy for temporary moulds as even quite tight curves are easy with no heat bending required . Cheers , Jim Buckland .
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